If you feel like the above paragraph is all sales pitch, here’s a link to a bunch of other makers who provide blanks. Getting spoon blanks removes these barriers and gets you carving sooner. In my workshops I’ve noticed that axe work and sourcing the raw materials tend to be major barriers to folks just starting out. Eventually you’ll want to be making these yourself. If you’re just dipping your toes into the spoon carving world, starting with roughed out blanks is one way to ease yourself in. ![]() Sloyd Knife: Anything from the following makers:Ĭhainsaw: Mine’s a battery powered Greenworks Pro. Hook Knives: Anything from the following makers: Sandpaper (400, 600, 1500, 3000, 5000, 7000 grits)Ī smooth, flat piece of wood to lay sandpaper on for sharping your 106Ī wooden dowel to wrap sandpaper around for the inside bevel of your hook knifeīudget Axe: Robin Wood Carving Axe or Green Haven Forge AxeĪdze: Hans Karlsson 50mm adze or Jason Lonon Spoon Adzeĭrawknife: Secondhand market (straight, 6-8” edge) or Lie-Nielson Straight Drawknife (make sure you’re getting Right or Left handed as needed) Hook knife: Mora 164 or Wood Tools Compound Curve If you're local to Madison and want to learn spoon carving and try out a few different tools, feel free to get in touch.Just looking for a shopping list? Here you go: Basics If eventually you feel like you want an axe designed specifically for carving work, it's worth trying to have a play around with a few if you can. You don't have to drop a ton of cash to make great work. Just make sure you get it razor sharp, as this will make carving safer and more fun. If you're looking to get into spoon carving, any hatchet will work. ![]() I feel that you'd be better off mastering the tool you have and keep the number of edges you have to sharpen to a minimum. Just to reiterate, the gains to be had aren't substantial. That said, if you have the 700g Karlsson and you add the 1kg (2.2lb) Gransfors, that might make larger carving projects (like bowls) go quicker. I own the Karlsson and the Little Viking and have tried the Gransfors Bruks Large Carving Axe several times and I feel that if you have one, you probably won't gain much from owning any of the others. Most dedicated carving axes follow a similar pattern: bearded head, upswept toe, flat/hollow grind, short and gently curved handle. I also miss the thumb indent the Little Viking has on the poll. ![]() The handle at the base of the head is quite thick, something I don't like so much, but nowhere near being an actual problem. Out of the box it cut aggressively and the smaller size made it feel nimble. It has a slight hollow grind and a shorter bevel. The shape of the head feels like a scaled down Little Viking: 40mm shorter and 100 grams lighter. It didn't take long to get used to it, and it wastes wood excellently. But it just wasn't the axe I was used to. It was a great chance to get some fantastic tools for my carving classes and the Karlsson is a fantastic axe. ![]() I added the Karlsson because I had the opportunity to get several of them at a discounted rate. I know exactly where it starts and stops, it's weight and heft are familiar and there's not much carving it can't do. Three years of work with that axe and it's become an extension of my body. I added the Little Viking because I wanted to try bowls and the longer edge and heavier head helps with that kind of work. The first axe I bought was the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet back in 2009 when I first started carving. To be honest I wouldn't really recommend getting more than one dedicated carving axe. I've had that axe for three years and have carved hundreds of spoons and dozens of bowls with it. I've been using the Hans Karlsson axe, alongside my main carving axe, the Svante Djarv Little Viking axe, for a couple of months now.
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